Ron Horii's Bay Area Back Pages
Santa Barbara
Contents
Introduction
The "California Dream" is a mythical idealized vision
of
warm, sunny palm-lined beaches with broad stretches of sparkling sand,
red-tiled Spanish-style houses with swimming pools and tennis courts,
and
a relaxed, easy-going lifestyle. This vision doesn't really exist, but
of all the places in California, Santa Barbara probably comes closest
to
that ideal. As a city, it's relatively small, with around 80,000
people,
but it has so many elements condensed into its compact environs, that
it's
almost like a living museum to the California Dream.
Red tile rooftops of Santa Barbara, County
Courthouse
in foreground
It may not have all the glitz and flashy amusements
of
LA and Hollywood, the awe-inspiring scenery of Monterey/Carmel, or the
cultural richness of San Francisco. Its beaches may not be as warm as
San
Diego's. Its mountains may not be as soaring as the Sierras. But it has
all the right elements in such perfectly balanced proportions, that's
it's
like a work of art. The rugged, forested ridge of the Santa
Ynez Mountains provides a strong backdrop to the city. The long
stretches
of beach with their gentle waves provide a tranquil foreground. The
Channel
Islands float dreamily on the horizon across the Santa Barbara Channel.
From every angle, the city is an Impressionist painting. Its
attractions
don't shout at you or flash bright signs to grab your attention.
Instead,
they lie quietly, like flowers in a garden, waiting for you to stroll
by
and appreciate their beauty. The whole city is much like a Japanese
garden,
with the works of nature and man flowing together harmoniously to
complement
each other.
View of beach by the breakwater, yacht harbor,
Riviera,
and Santa Ynez Mountains
It's no wonder that so many Hollywood celebrities
and
wealthy Angelenos have fled the hectic environment of LA and taken
refuge
in Santa Barbara. Because of all this wealth, the city has been
well-endowed
culturally. The quality of its museums and performing arts are far out
of proportion to its size. Even its public buildings are works of art.
The city's sense of pride is obvious in the little touches you see
everywhere--hand-painted
tiles decorate drinking fountains, bright flowers provide splashes of
color
to the city streets. The buildings, even the new ones, add to and
reinforce
the Mediterranean look of the city, with their red-tiled roofs and
whitewashed
walls. Its many upscale stores, restaurants, and hotels reflect the
high
standards of quality expected by its residents and visitors.
Despite all its qualities, or because of them, Santa
Barbara
is a great place to visit, but you can't afford to live there. Because
of its geographical limitations and anti-growth politics, the city has
barely grown in decades. Thus, housing is in short-supply and extremely
expensive. New high-paying jobs are relatively scarce, so it's
difficult
for young people or newcomers to settle down there. (That's of the
reasons
why I don't live there.) It's a great place to live if you're coming in
WITH money. It's not easy if you're coming in to try to MAKE money.
However,
if you're just visiting, it doesn't matter. Just come, relax, and enjoy
it.
I lived in Santa Barbara for 5 years while I was
attending
UCSB. My parents still live there, so I visit several times a year.
Over
the years, I've gotten to know the city and surrounding areas fairly
well,
and discovered many secret and wonderful places. In these pages, I hope
to share them with you.
Weather
The weather here is another reason for the Santa
Barbara
area's appeal. It's weather is just about ideal. It's warmer in the
winter
than Northern California, but cooler in the summer than LA and San
Diego.
Smog is rarely a problem. Ocean breezes keep the city in the 70's
during
the summer, while just over the mountains in the Santa Ynez Valley,
temperatures
can be 20 degrees hotter or more. The ocean also keeps temperatures
mild
in the winter. 70 degree weather around New Year's is not unusual. (See
the pictures below that I took at UCSB this New
Year's
Eve.) Winters can be wet. There are usually a handful of big storms
that
the city relies on to fill its reservoirs. Occasionally, snow dusts the
tops of the mountains. Winter nights can get near freezing, but the
days
are usually mild. June is one of the cooler months, as it can be foggy
and overcast. Fall can bring some hot days, as the Santa Ana winds blow
from the hotter inland areas. These hot winds make September and
October
the worst time for fires, not only for Santa Barbara, but for
California
in general. Fall is a good time to visit, however, as the summer crowds
are gone, and the ocean waters are still warm enough for swimming.
Check
here for the current weather.
Best Places to Take Your
Children
- The
Santa
Barbara
Zoological Gardens--A compact but beautifully landscaped zoo with a
surprising variety of animals. It has play areas, a train ride, broad
lawns
for picnicking, and a petting area. It's in a gorgeous setting
overlooking
the 42-acre saltwater lagoon of the Andree Clark Bird Refuge and the
ocean
at East Beach. The bird refuge itself has a large population of ducks
that
love to be fed by children.
Train at SB Zoo, overlooking the Andree
Clark Bird
Refuge
- The
Sea Center at Stearns Wharf--This has a full-size model of a gray
whale
suspended overhead, with aquariums and interactive exhibits on the
ocean. Stearns
Wharf has shops, restaurants, candy stores, and ice cream parlors.
At the end of the wharf, you can see live fish and crustaceans in a
seafood
store and watch fisherman catch mackeral and sometimes salmon from the
pier. Hungry pelicans stroll around looking to steal a free meal. If
you're
adventurous, you can go parasailing.
- Bicycling Along Cabrillo Blvd--You can rent
bicycles and surreys near Stearns Wharf and ride them along the
bike
path that parallels the beach and Cabrillo Blvd. You can ride to the
Andree
Clark Bird Refuge in one direction, and past the yacht harbor and
Leadbetter
beach in the other direction. The surreys can hold a whole family of 4.
You can also skate or stroll along these paths.
Bike path along Cabrillo Blvd. and East Beach
- Mission Santa
Barbara--Santa
Barbara's most famous landmark, it is known as the Queen of the
Missions,
for good reason. With its architecture and its palm-shaded setting at
the
foot of the Santa Ynez Mountains with views of the coastline, it's
often
considered the most beautiful of all the missions. Its facade is a
unique
combination of classical architecture, with its columns and triangular
pediment, and Spanish-style tile roofs and arches. It was the 10th
mission
built in California, founded in 1786 by Father Lasuen, completed in
1820,
and restored after the earthquake of 1925. It has been in continuous
use
since its founding. In front is a goldfish-filled fountain, a long
concrete
trough that was used for washing clothes, a cactus garden, and a huge
lawn
area. Inside are exhibits on life during the mission days. The mission
still serves as a parish church, and the chapel is in use for services.
Outside is a cemetery with tombs and mausoleums dating back to the
1800's.
4000 Indians are reportedly buried here, including the Indian girl who
inspired the story, "The Island of the Blue Dolphins." (See here for
more
on the history
of Mission Santa Barbara.)
Fountain, Mission Santa Barbara, and Santa
Ynez
Moutains
- The Santa
Barbara Museum
of Natural History is near the mission. It's in a lovely
tree-shaded
setting, with Mission Creek flowing behind it. In front is a 72-foot
skeleton
of a blue whale that you can walk through. Inside are exhibits, some
interactive,
on prehistoric animals, insects, minerals, sea creatures, birds, and
Indians.
It has a huge model of a giant squid suspended from the ceiling and a
real
giant squid preserved in liquid. It also has a planetarium and hands-on
exhibits on space.
Blue whale skeleton at the Natural History
Museum
- The beautiful Santa
Barbara
Botanic Garden is further up the road from the mission. Its 65
acres
are in a wooded canyon along Mission Creek. It has a tremendous variety
of plant life in miniature environments, from wildflower-covered
meadows,
desert-like cactus gardens, lush fern canyons, ponds with turtles and
fish,
to shady redwood groves. 5 1/2 miles of trails wander across and up and
down the canyon walls of the garden. Mission Creek is a cool place to
splash
around in. When it's flowing, it makes a small waterfall over an old
dam
built in the mission days. There are several enormous boulders in the
gardens
that make for fun climbing. One has a small cave at its base.
Meadow at Santa Barbara Botanical Garden,
Santa
Ynez Mountains in background (April, '91)
- The Kid's World Playground at Alameda
Park is a huge complex play area in a lovely 9-acre tree-shaded
park.
The tall castle-like wooden structures were built by volunteers, and
the
painted and mosaic-covered walls were decorated by children.
- Alice
Keck Park
Memorial
Gardens is a 4.6-acre jewel of a garden with a gazebo overlooking a
lily pond that contains turtles, giant colorful koi (Japanese carp),
large
bass (no fishing), and bluegill. It once even contained a piranha.
- The wading pools at Oak
Park and near the Marina at Los Banos Del Mar are great for little
kids who aren't ready to take a dip in the cool, salty ocean. These are
huge pools, particularly the one by the Marina, which is also next to
an
Olympic-size public pool for older children and adults. The pool at Oak
Park is in a tree-shaded park and has fountains that are fun to run
through.
- Chase
Palm Park is a beautiful new park along the
north
side of Cabrillo Blvd. east of Stearns Wharf. It has a plaza, pond,
creek,
shipwreck-themed playground, community center, pavilion, and fountain.
(See Chase
Palm Park Center.)
- Shoreline
Park is located on Shoreline Drive west of Leadbetter Beach on a
coastal
bluff. The cliffs provide some of the best views of the Santa Barbara
Harbor
area and the Channel Islands. This is a good spot for whale-watching.
There
are picnic areas, playgrounds, and wide open lawns. A stairway leads
down
the cliffs to the narrow stretch of beach below them.
- Elings
Park is the largest city park in Santa Barbara, located in the
hills
along Las Positas, overlooking Arroyo Burro Beach and the Douglas
Family
Preserve. Much of the park is undeveloped, with hiking trails leading
to
spectacular views. The developed parts have playing fields, hilltop
picnic
areas, a playground, and a BMX track.
- Tucker's
Grove Park is located at the base of the foothills in a wooded
grove
at the corner of Turnpike and Cathedral Oaks Road. the lower developed
parts of the park have lawns, picnic areas, and a playground. Hiking
trails
lead up into the hills.
- Stow
Grove Park is located in Goleta off Cathedral Oaks Road east of Los
Carneros. The park has picnic areas in shady redwood groves. There are
grassy playing fields and playgrounds.
The Beaches
The Santa Barbara area is famous for its warm, sunny,
and
swimmer-friendly beaches. Most of the beaches face south, which makes
them
warmer and more protected than west-facing beaches. The Channel Islands
also help shield the beaches from big Pacific Ocean swells. Offshore
kelp
beds also help damp out waves. With the Channel Islands in the
background,
the Santa Barbara Channel often looks like a big lake, especially in
the
morning, when the waters are calmer. Most of the beaches are scenic,
natural,
and uncrowded. The following are some of the beaches of the Santa
Barbara
area, listed from southeast to northwest:
- Rincon
area: This area is a narrow strip of Ventura County beaches next to
Highway 101, which runs at the foot of tall coastal cliffs between
Ventura
and Carpinteria. Rincon
Beach County Park is here. The beaches are easily accessible, being
right next to the highway in places. Several places are prime surfing
areas,
with great waves. Other places are good for clamming and fishing. Close
to Ventura, RV camping is allowed on the side of the road next to the
beach.
- Carpinteria:
The
town of Carpinteria claims to have the world's safest beach. The reason
is that a gradually-sloping shelf and offshore reefs prevent high waves
and riptides. The beach here is wide, sandy, and gently-sloping. A
short
walk to the west leads to the mouth of the Carpinteria Slough. There's
camping along the beach in the state
beach campground. South of the state park are the Carpinteria
Bluffs. Trails lead down to the beach.
- Santa
Claus Lane: Santa Claus Village is a small stretch of
Christmas-themed
shops between Carpinteria and Summerland. It is located on the edge of
a stretch of sandy beach. The beach is located beyond a seawall of
large
boulders.
- Summerland:
The
broad beach here in this small town between Carpinteria and Santa
Barbara
has warm, gentle waves.
- Butterfly
Beach:
This small (1/4 mile long) but beautiful beach is near one
of
the most luxurious and famous hotel-resorts in the city--the Santa
Barbara
Four Seasons Biltmore Hotel. It's in one of the wealthiest areas of the
county--Montecito.
- East
Beach: This is the most popular beach in Santa Barbara. It's a long
beach that runs for several miles from Steans Wharf east along
palm-lined
Cabrillo Blvd., ending near the zoo and bird refuge. Some of the
better-known
hotels and restaurants in Santa Barbara overlook this beach. During the
summer weekends, arts and crafts vendors line the sidewalks. A
multi-use
path (see above) winds along the side of the
beach
for most of its length. The beaches are clean, wide, warm, and the
waves
are just right for swimming and body surfing. Beach volleyball is very
popular in Santa Barbara, and the volleyball courts here provide lots
of
action. Though parts of the beach near the parking lots can get a
little
crowded, a short walk from the east end leads to a relatively isolated
stretch that ends up at Butterfly Beach.
- Santa
Barbara Wharf, West Beach:
This beach is along Cabrillo Blvd., west
of Stearns of Wharf. The beach widens out here, with a huge stretch of
sand between Cabrillo Blvd. and the surf. As it approaches the yacht
harbor,
the protective breakwater reduces the waves, making it safer for
smaller
children to wade in the water.
- Leadbetter
Beach: This beach is at the west end of Cabrillo Blvd. Its east
edge
is adjacent to the yacht harbor, and its west edge is lined by the
cliffs
of Shoreline Park. This beach has some good waves, making it a popular
surfing spot.
- Shoreline
Park and Thousand
Steps Beach: The name is an exaggeration, but to get to it, you do
have to descend a long stairway. It leads to a narrow, uncrowded strand
of beach underneath the cliffs near Shoreline Park, west of Leadbetter
Beach.
- Mesa
Lane Beach: This small beautiful beach is located at the base of
steep coastal cliffs between Thousand Steps Beach and Arroyo Burro
Beach.
A long staiway leads down to the beach from the end of Mesa Lane off
Cliff
Drive. It can also be reached at low tide from Arroyo Burro. (Panorama
view) The
stretch
of beach between Mesa Lane and Arroyo Burro lies below the cliffs and
mesa
of the Douglas
Family Preserve, a beautiful undeveloped open space area saved from
development by donors, including Michael Douglas.
- Arroyo
Burro County Beach: This is a beautiful beach, (also known as
Hendry's
Beach) one of my favorites. This beach is a county
park. It's at the mouth of a creek, which forms a warm, wadeable
lagoon.
Steep iceplant-covered cliffs surround and protect the beach. South of
the beach, waves have cut into the cliff, forming a deep tunnel. Hang
gliders
often take off from the cliffs and soar over the beach. The waves here
attract board and body surfers. There are rocks near the edge of the
beach,
which form many tidepools at low tide. The surf, the rocks, and the
offshore
kelp beds make for excellent fishing. There's a nice restaurant at the
beach, The Brown Pelican, with ocean-view dining, as well as a takeout
window for beachgoers. Though the beach near the parking lot is very
popular,
a short walk east or west leads to long, isolated stretches of beach,
which
you can have almost to yourself. At low tide, you can walk several
miles
from here to Goleta and Isla Vista beaches to the west or to Thousand
Steps
and even Leadbetter Beach to the east. Arroyo Burro is the only beach
in
Santa Barbara that allows dogs (on leash). A small ravine at the beach
is the home to a large number of feral cats.
Arroyo Burro beach and creek (December 28,
'93)
- Goleta
Beach: This is a broad beach next to UCSB and the Santa Barbara
Airport.
The beach is a county
park. The Goleta slough flows behind the beach and into the ocean
here.
At high tide, the ocean back-flows into the slough. The current at the
mouth of the slough can be strong at its peak, but between the tides,
the
water can be a warm, shallow, wading area for kids (keep an eye on
them).
The waters and flats of the slough are prime waterfowl-watching areas.
The Goleta pier stretches out into the bay and offers pier fishing,
boat
launching, and strolls out over the water. There's a restaurant here
with
views of the beach. There are tables and lawns for picnicking and a
playground
for kids. The waves here are gentle and ideal for wading and swimming.
Jet skiing, wind surfing, and sailing are also popular here.
- UCSB beaches (see UCSB below):
UCSB
is located on a corner of the coastline. One side is on the edge of
Goleta
Bay and looks over the water towards the east. The other side, like the
adjacent Isla Vista beaches, faces south. At the corner is rocky Goleta
Point, or Campus
Point, which is a popular surfing and rock fishing area. From here,
it's possible to watch the sun rise and set over the ocean. The beaches
are obviously popular with the UCSB students, but they are rarely
crowded.
They're open to the public if you pay the on-campus parking fee or walk
from Goleta Beach.
- Isla
Vista Beach: This is popular with UCSB students, mainly because
most
of them live here. It tends to disappear in the winter due to wave
action.
There's more tar here than at other Santa Barbara beaches, especially
at
Coal Oil Point. (Baby oil works well at removing tar.) Still, these
beaches
are scenic, uncrowded and make for good strolling, fishing,
tidepooling,
and surfing at the rocky points. Isla
Vista County Park is above the beach. The West Campus beach at
Devereux
Dunes is an ecological preserve with a lagoon, eucalyptus groves, and
large
sand dunes. Ellwood Beach lies to the west of this. It has long
stretches
of beach below coastal cliffs and the Sandpiper Golf Course.
Unfortunately,
it tends to be tarry. It is historically significant because it was the
only place on the mainland U.S. coast that was attacked by the Japanese
in WWII. A submarine shelled an oil well here, and the incident was the
inspiration for the madcap movie "1941," which starred John Belushi.
The Ellwood
Bluffs provide hiking through fields, eucalyptus forests (home to migrating
monarch butterfiles in the winter), and great views of the beaches
and islands from coastal cliffs.
- Haskell's
Beach: This once remote and little-known (except to locals) beach
now
has a fancy beach house and parking lot near it. That's because a
luxury resort was built next to it, the Bacara
Resort & Spa. The resort looks like it
was
transplanted from the French Riviera, with prices to match. The beach,
however, is free.
- El
Capitan State Beach: This is the first of the 3 state beaches west
of Santa Barbara. It's 15 miles west of the city. Like the other 2
state
beaches, it's at the mouth of a coastal creek that cuts through steep
bluffs.
There's a long stretch of sandy beach on one side, and a rocky beach on
the other side covered with smooth wave-worn stones. It covers 168
acres
and has 3 miles of shoreline. It has a large tree-shaded campground
above
the beach. A private
campround
is inland from the highway along the creek that flows into the ocean
here.
- Refugio
State Beach: This is the second state beach west of Santa Barbara,
lying 18 miles from the city. This beautiful beach is at the end of a
large
valley that is famous for one of its former residents: Ronald Reagan.
Camping
is available right by the beach.
- Gaviota
State Beach: This is the largest of the three state beach areas
above
Santa Barbara, with 2,800 acres and 1 mile of beach. It's at the edge
of
Highway 101 just before it turns inland at Gaviota Pass, 32 miles west
of Santa Barbara. There's a campground here, as well as a fishing pier.
The park goes inland quite a ways, offering hiking and horseback riding.
- Jalama
Beach: This isolated beach is 15 miles from Lompoc, 5 miles north
of
Point Conception, and just south of Vandenberg AFB. It is a scenic
beach
at the mouth of Jalama Creek. There is a campground here.
More Beach Links:
- Santa
Barbara Beaches with maps
- Santa
Barbara Surf Guide
- Travel
Channel America's Best Beach Guide - Santa Barbara
- Southern
California Coast
- Friends
of
the Ellwood
Coast
- BeachCalifornia
The
Mountains
One of the features that make Santa Barbara so special
are
the mountains. The Santa Ynez range forms a steep, nearly vertical wall
that runs for east to west behind the city and soars to almost 4,000
feet
at La Cumbre Peak.
- San
Marcos Pass Road: State highway 154, a winding but fast road, is
the
main route into the Santa Ynez Mountains from Santa Barbara. This
former
stagecoach route crests the mountains at San Marcos Pass. The views
along
the way are breathtaking. On the Santa Ynez Valley side, the road runs
along Lake Cachuma.
- Foothill
and
Mountain Trails: One of the best things about Santa Barbara is its
proximity and easy access to the Santa Ynez Mountains. There are
several
wooded canyons that run down the mountainsides. During the rainy
season,
creeks flow through these canyons, forming pools and waterfalls. There
are rocks for climbing and sunning. There are many trails that run into
these hills. The best way to find out about these is to get a trail
guide.
- Camino Cielo: This incredibly scenic road runs
along the
crest of the Santa Ynez Mountains. Several small roads intersect it,
but
the main access point is the crossings with San Marcos Pass Road. This
offers spectacular views of the coast, Santa Barbara, the Channel
Islands,
the Santa Ynez Valley, and the San Rafael Mountains. A
number of hiking
trails lead off from the road.
- Painted Cave Road: This road that winds steeply
up
from Santa
Barbara into the mountains is named for the Chumash Indian cave along
the
way. This is now Chumash
Painted Cave State Historic Park. Cave paintings are visible in the
fenced-off cave. The winding road offers spectacular vistas along the
way.
- Knapp's
Castle: I found out about this place in Ray Ford's book on Santa
Barbara
hiking trails. Knapp's Castle is the ghostly ruins of a huge sandstone
mountain lodge that was built in the early part of the century by
former
Union Carbide Chairman George Owen Knapp. He owned 160 acres along the
upper eastern slope of the Santa Ynez mountains. The location offers
spectacular
views of the Santa Ynez Valley. It is reached by driving up Highway
154,
turning east on East Camino Cielo. About a mile past Painted Cave Road
is a locked Forest Service gate. A half mile hike down the public dirt
road leads to the ruins. It's technically on private land, so access is
at the discretion of the owners. Last time I heard, access is not
restricted.
Looking down Santa Ynez Valley through
Knapp's Castle
ruins
- Nojoqui
Falls: This
scenic waterfall (pronounced No-Hoe-Wee) is located in Nojoqui
Falls County Park, 5 miles north of Gaviota Pass off Highway 101 at
Alisal Road. It's also accessible from Solvang via Alisal Road. The
falls
are located at the end of a densely-shaded ravine, lined with laurels,
oaks, and maples. A .6 mile long woodsy path that runs along the creek
and criss-crosses it on several footbridges leads to the falls. The
falls
are 80 feet high and leap over a sandstone cliff. Venus maidenhair
ferns
surround the falls. A shallow pool at the base of the falls is fun for
wading or watching the water insects.
More Santa Barbara outdoor links:
- Santa
Barbara
hikes.
- SB-Outdoors.com
- Santa
Barbara
County Parks
- Santa Barbara
Bicycle Coalition
- Goleta
Valley Cycling Club
Cultural Activities, Arts and
Architecture
- The Santa
Barbara Museum
of Art: This is an impressive museum for a city of its size. It has
benefitted from the generosity of the city's wealthy citizens. The
collections
include art pieces from ancient to modern times, with many works by
famous
artists.
- Santa
Barbara County Courthouse: this Spanish-Moorish style building has
been called the most beautiful public building in America. Its entrance
is a huge tile-lined arch. The walls are covered with painting, murals,
mosaics, and colored tiles. Historical murals adorn the courtrooms. Its
70-foot-tall clock tower provides panoramic views of the city (see
the picture above.) The courthouse
gardens are a county park.
- Santa
Barbara
Historical Society Museum: This has historical items and displays
from
Santa Barbara's Indian, Spanish, Mexican, and American past.
- El
Presidio State Historic Park: This downtown site was founded in
1782,
and was one of 4 Spanish military fortresses on the California coast.
Several
buildings form the park, including the El Presidio chapel, a recreated
mission chappel, and the 1788 El Cuartel adobe, the second oldest
surviving
building in California, which served as a soliders' barracks.
- El
Paseo: This downtown shopping arcade exemplifies Santa Barbara's
old
Spanish style, with its brick walkways and wrought iron-railed
balconies.
El Paseo restaurant in the center has open courtyard with dining under
the stars.
- Stow
House: This is a restored Victorian house in Goleta with furniture
and clothing from that era. Next to it is the South
Coast Railroad Museum, housed in the historic Goleta Depot. It is
located
in Lake
Los Carneros Park, which is near redwood-shaded Stow
Grove Park. (See Lake
Los Carneros Hike.)
- Carriage
Museum: This houses historical horsedrawn carts and carriages which
are paraded down the streets of Santa Barbara during the annual Old
Spanish
Days festival.
- Santa
Barbara
Maritime Museum: This new museum opened on
a limited basis in July 2000 in the former Naval Reserve Center at the
Yacht Harbor. It is scheduled for completion in 2002.
The University of California at
Santa
Barbara
UCSB is my alma
mater. I fell in love with it the moment I visited it during a high
school
field trip. It has had a checkered reputation in its past. In the
turbulent
60's, there were images of the bank burning in Isla Vista. In the 70's,
it had a reputation as a party school, which was true and
well-deserved,
but parties and academic excellence are not mutually exclusive. In
recent
years, it has quietly grown a world-renowned reputation in certain
areas,
particularly physics, marine biology, and solid state engineering.
Still,
it has been hidden in the shadows of the giant campuses of Cal Berkeley
and UCLA. Many students end up at UCSB because they've been turned down
at the flagship campuses.
For me, however, UCSB was my first choice. I had
visited
many campuses, including UCLA and Berkeley. However, I found them to be
too big and impersonal, and too much a part of the crowded cities they
were in. When I visited UCSB, however, I instantly felt comfortable
with
it. I was captivated by its natural beauty, surrounded on 2 sides by
ocean
and one side by an estuary, and with a lagoon, broad lawns, sand dunes,
coastal bluffs, and shady groves of eucalyptus trees. Sitting on a
mesa,
surrounded by open fields and wetlands, it seemed like an island, much
like the Channel Islands in the background.
Unlike commuter schools like UCLA and Cal State Long
Beach,
where many of my high school friends went, most UCSB students live on
or
near the campus, away from home. Students have to be more independent
from
their families. Strong social bonds are formed, which is one reason
parties
are so common. It also helps create an atmosphere of independent,
creative,
and experimental thinking. The years I spent at UCSB were the most
exciting,
inspirational, and enlightening years of my life up to that point. Many
of the friends I made there are still close friends today, including my
wife.
View of east campus beach, Marine Science Lab,
and
Goleta Beach
UCSB is a worthwhile place to visit while in Santa
Barbara.
It's a beautiful and scenic campus to walk around in and explore. There
are always cultural and sports events going on. It has some of the best
concerts in the area. The University Center has a large bookstore and
several
places to eat, with lovely views of the campus lagoon. The University's
art museum is small, but has an impressive permanent collection and
rotating
exhibits. Works of art pop up in surprising places. The library is
enormous,
with many unusual and rare collections. The music and arts library is
separate,
with music listening rooms. Adjacent Isla Vista is a funky, lively,
college
village.
Storke Tower and campus lagoon, UCSB (New
Year's
Eve '97)
We visited the campus Christmas vacation in 1997. As
you
can see, the weather was beautiful, and so was the campus. Santa
Barbara
has some of the nicest weather in California, which means it has some
of
the best weather in the country. It was in the 70's when we were there
this New Year's Eve, but I remember days with 80-90 degree weather in
December.
However, winter can be wet, and it can even snow in the higher
elevations.
I remember one winter day when it had snowed in the mountains the night
before, but it was warm on the coast. Some guys drove up to the
mountains,
loaded up their pickup with snow, and brought it down to the beach. It
was quite a sight watching people in swimsuits making a snowman on the
beach and having snowball fights.
South campus beach UCSB (New Year's Eve, '97)
Contact the UCSB
Visitors Center for tours of the campus.
I visited UCSB and Santa Barbara in the summer of
2000.
Here are some pictures
from that summer.
Santa Barbara Area Links
- Government, Community
- Media
- Travel Guides
Neighboring Areas
- Santa
Ynez
Valley: This scenic sunny valley lies behind the wall of the Santa
Ynez Mountains, north of Santa Barbara. The rugged San Rafael Mountains
form its northern border It's sparsely populated and is mostly the home
of huge ranches. Michael Jackson's Neverland Ranch is here. Jane Fonda
once owned a big spread here. The main attractions are Lake Cachuma,
the
Santa Ynez River, and Solvang (see below). This is a wine-growing
regions,
and several local wineries have wine-tasting.
- Lake
Cachuma: This
is a huge reservoir (42 miles of shoreline) in the Santa Ynez Valley
behind
Santa Barbara. It's Santa Barbara's primary water
source. It's a great place for fishing, with huge bass, catfish,
and
trout caught here regularly. (I caught a 22-inch trout here once.)
There's
a large campground
with 500 campsites along the oak-shaded shores of the lake. Boating and
horseback riding are popular here. Hundreds of bald eagles winter here
from November to March, which you can see on 2-hour guided pontoon boat
rides.
- Santa
Ynez River: This river flows into Lake Cachuma. A road goes up the
river and crosses over it in several places. (You have to cross through
the river, so this is not recommended or possible during the rainy
season.
Also, don't cross in a leaky low-rider or you'll get your feet wet.)
Several
Forest Service Campgrounds are located along the river. Deep holes
offer
trout fishing and swimming. Red Rock, a popular swimming hole, is
located
a short hike from the end of the road.
- Santa
Maria: This
is the northernmost city in Santa Barbara County. With a population of
68,000, it's the second largest city on the Central Coast. It's about a
1 1/2 hour drive from Santa Barbara, but it seems even farther away in
character. Unlike Santa Barbara, Santa Maria is a fast-growing city in
the middle of a broad coastal plain with lots of room for expansion.
The
Santa Maria Valley has a population of 100,000. Its economy is based on
agriculture, ranching, and oil, rather than tourism, like Santa
Barbara.
Politically and culturally, it's much more blue collar, conservative,
and
growth-oriented than Santa Barbara. It's closer to Bakersfield in
character
than Santa Barbara. Its motto is "Center of the Best." That means
there's
plenty to do in the surrounding areas. That doesn't mean there's
nothing
to do in the city itself. It's famous for its Santa
Maria-style barbecues. BBQ'd tri-tip cuts are sold on weekends all
over town. The Santa Barbara County Fair is held here. It has an air
museum,
the Santa
Maria Museum of Flight. The Disney move, "The Rocketeer," was
filmed
at the Santa Maria Airport. The Santa Maria Valley Historical Museum
covers
the area's agricultural heritage. Waller County Park has a lake with
fountains
and a waterfall, and there are pony rides for kids. The coast is 12
miles
away at Guadalupe. The Guadalupe area has several freshwater lakes in
sand
dunes northwest of the town. The Guadalupe Nipomo Dunes Preserve has
500-foot
dunes, the highest on the California coast. North of Santa Maria, off
Hwy
101, is Lopez
Lake,
which has camping, fishing, boating, and water slides.
- Solvang:
This
popular
tourist town with a population of less than 5,000 was founded in 1911
by
Danish teachers. The names means "sunny fields" in Danish. It's off
State
Route 246, about 45 miles inland from Santa Barbara. The town is built
in a Scandinavian theme, with half-timbered walls, thatched roofs, and
windmills. It's fun to tour the many colorful shops,
restaurants,
and inns.
It
has over 300 stores. This is a dangerous place if you're on a diet--the
Danish
pastries, wines, imported cheeses, sausages, and traditional
Scandinavian
foods will get you. Historic and well-restored Mission
Santa Ines is in the town. There's also the Hans Christian Andersen
museum, dedicated to the famous Danish fairy tale author. You can tour
the city in a horse-drawn old Copenhagen streetcar.
- Buellton:
This
small town is located along Hwy 101, 3 miles west of Solvang. It has
several
restaurants and motels and makes a good rest stop. Pea
Soup Anderson's, which is famous for its split pea soup, is here,
with
a motel and restaurant. Buellton is less than an hour from Santa
Barbara
and is close to Solvang and Gaviota Beach. It's a cheaper place to stay
than Santa Barbara and easier to get rooms during the peak tourist
season.
- Mission
La Purisma Concepcion: 15 miles west of Buellton, this is the most
completely restored of all the California missions and has the most
authentic-looking
site. It is a state
historic park. Instead of being a mission chapel in the middle of a
modern city, like many missions today, it is an isolated complex of
many
restored mission-era buildings surrounded by undeveloped hills and open
fields. If you ignore the air force planes and occasional missile
launches
at nearby Vandenburg AFB, you can imagine yourself being back in the
mission
times here.
- Vandenberg
Air
Force Base: The
air base is next door to Lompoc.
Before the Challenger disaster, space
shuttle flights for the military were supposed to be launched from
here.
The area built up in anticipation of a glut of tourists that never
arrived,
since the shuttle flights from here were canceled. Still, the base is
used
for launching unmanned rockets into space, including the huge Titan
rockets. Rocket launches can be viewed from outside the base (see
here for information). The base is on the coast and has
some
beautiful, isolated shoreline not generally open to the public.
However,
it can be seen from the Amtrak Coast Starlight train.
- Ojai: This
small, but
colorful resort town is located inland between Santa Barbara and
Ventura,
nestled in a scenic deep valley, surrounded by steep mountains that
soar
to 6000 feet. Music, arts, and dance festivals are held here. Nearby Lake
Casitas is a popular boating, fishing, and camping lake.
- Ventura,
Oxnard,
and Camarillo: These are
explosively
growing cities in Ventura County. Located on broad coastal plains, they
have a lot of room for expansion, which has been fueled by overflow
from
the LA area. They used to be smaller than Santa Barbara, but are now
much
larger. Modern shopping and outlet centers and new subdivisions have
popped
up everywhere. Still, there are many points of interest. In Ventura is
the Ventura County Historical
Museum and Mission
San Buenaventura. There are miles of beaches here. Unlike Santa
Barbara's
narrow cliff-backed beaches, most of the beaches here are broad and
flat.
There are several yacht harbors here, which offer seafood restaurants,
shops, boating, and fishing. Boat rentals and bay
cruises in the harbor are available. The large visitor's
center at Channel Islands Harbor for Channel Islands National Park
has models and photographs of the islands, nature exhibits, and
touchable
tidepools.
- The
Channel
Islands: This
chain of islands lie off the coast and stretch from Gaviota in the west
to Port Hueneme in the east. They are a national treasure, but are
lightly
visited. 5 of the islands have been designated a national park and the
surrounding waters have been declared a national marine sanctuary.
Considering
how huge the islands are and what prime real estate they would be, it's
surprising but fortunate that they are mostly wild, uninhabited, and
undeveloped.
This makes them extremely rich wildlife habitats. The waters around the
islands are prime fishing grounds and are great whale-watching and
SCUBA
diving areas. The islands' shores are populated by seabirds and sea
mammals.
They are incredibly varied and scenic and can be visited by boat. Each
island has its own character. The largest is Santa
Cruz, at 60,645 acres and 77 miles of coastline. Its highest point
at 2,400 feet is the highest among the Channel Islands. The island
reportedly
has the largest known sea cave in the world. 90% of the island is owned
and protected by the Nature Conservancy,
which has an exhibit on the islands at Santa Barbara's Stearns Wharf.
The
eastern 10% of the island is under jurisdiction of the National Parks
Service
and is open to visitation. The
Santa Cruz Island Foundation was originally established to preserve
the historically significant assets of the island's late major owner,
Dr.
Carey Stanton and now sponsors historical research on all the Channel
Islands.
The smallest island is Santa
Barbara Island at 639 acres. Despite its size, it has a wide
variety
of habitats, wildlife, and scenery. A visitor's center is on the
island. Anacapa
Island, the second smallest at 699 acres, is one of the most
visited
islands. It is located 14 miles from Ventura. It has steep sea cliffs
hundreds
of feet high, volcanic tubes, and sea caves. At its east end is 45-foot
high Arch Rock natural bridge, which is visible from the mainland. The
island offers ranger-led hiking, picknicking, camping,
snorkeling, diving, kayaking, bird watching, and tidepooling. Boat
rides
to the Channel Islands leave from Channel Islands Harbor in Ventura. Island
Packers is the authorized concessionaire that runs the boats from
Ventura.
There are also boat rides from
Santa
Barbara by Truth Aquatics, which caters to scuba divers. Private
charter trips to the islands can be caught from Santa Barbara. You
can also see the islands by air via Channel
Islands Aviation, based at Camarillo Airport. They take a 25-minute
flight over Anacapa and Santa Cruz Islands and land on 53,000-acre Santa
Rosa Island, the second largest island, for hiking, camping, and
4WD
tours of the island.
Click here to return to
my Bay
Area
Back Pages Home Page
Update note: I originally created this page
in
1997. I last updated it in 1999. In 2001, I noticed that most of the
links
had expired. I updated all the links in February 2001, cleaned out the
dead ones, and found some new ones. Even while I was updating them,
some
links died. Such is the Internet. 9/15/01: updated the links, added
more
pictures. This page was originally hosted on pages.prodigy.net. In
2011, without warning to me, all Prodigy personal webpages were
terminated, so I had to quickly migrate it to my Yahoo site on
rhorii.com. However, the migration resulted in problems with the links
to the pictures. I fixed the page and cleaned up more stale links on
5/28/12.
Ron Horii,
San
Jose